Could you use 4×8 plywood panels as a floor in a bedroom?
I have a 16×14 sunken bedroom in a 1970's home. It had a leaking problem and the carpet was ripped up and tossed. The leak was fixed but I'm stuck with a rough, cold, UGLY, concrete floor. It has glue stains and wall plaster splatters all over it. I dont have the time or money to have the concrete re-leveled. Could I somehow get a good thin sheet of plywood, put a finish on it and glue it down?? I know I have seen it done on tv and on a home tour I went too. But how would I do it the cheep way?! What materials would I use (type of wood, sealer, stain, glue)? If this is even possible. Thanks for any advice.
Sure you could!
1. Take a portable sander use 50 to 80 grits sand paper
just to level off a little bit and to remove any protruding
objects (if any). Also damp concrete to minimize dust.
clean-up dust with damp cloth
2. Use white glue. "stickwell brand or wood glue available in
hardware stores. Apply both surface.
3. Start installing at the center to attain symmetry.
Set guide lines. Suggested plywood thickness – 12mm
Slide plywood back and forth to attain vacuum
Put weights on plywood joints or reinforce with finishing
nails to maintain even surface joints
Let it dry overnight and voila you've got wooden flooring.
Finishes:
Note: Use hardwood specie plywood:
Oak, Mahogany, Pine wood etc.
1. Fine sanding: Use 240 grits sand paper
Wash coating: Only needed for coarse grain wood eg.
Tanguile or Philippine mahogany
Apply mix of 90% lacquer thinner-10% lacquer sanding
sealer just to stiffen the grain for easier sanding and have
a smoother surface.(skip process if using fine grain wood)
2. Use penetrating stain to attain desired color
Apply directly to the wood by brush. Try to maintain even
application. Over application could be corrected by wiping
off with lacquer thinner. let dry. 1 to 2 hrs
3. Apply 2 coats of sanding sealer
Sand in between coats -240 grits sand paper 1st coat
320 grits sand paper – 2nd coat
Note: drying time in between coats – 4 hrs
4. Apply Top coat to attain a harder surface
Recommended paint materials: "Polyurethane coatings"
Let dry. Curing time – 24 hrs
"G O O D L U C K ! ! !
If you do this, it is going to look awful. You can install a nice hardwood floor in a matter of hours. Go down to a home improvement store and they can give you prices on materials.
If I can install one, YOU can install one.
References :
By the time you pay for all this you could have gone and purchased padding & carpet for the floor. Try Habitat for humanity, they have a local store here that selles used building materails for cheap. Plywood will not do, and it will worp and look worse then the uneven concrete.
References :
Sure you could
Plywood, OSB, T&G
Just do some research and one other suggestion.
clean the floor well and let dry………
ehow has some info on how etc
References :
http://designtalk.homevisions.com/2006/12/21/tooltalk-painting-the-subfloor-to-save-money/
ehow.com
http://www.ifloor.com/guide/subfloor_guide.html
Sure you could!
1. Take a portable sander use 50 to 80 grits sand paper
just to level off a little bit and to remove any protruding
objects (if any). Also damp concrete to minimize dust.
clean-up dust with damp cloth
2. Use white glue. "stickwell brand or wood glue available in
hardware stores. Apply both surface.
3. Start installing at the center to attain symmetry.
Set guide lines. Suggested plywood thickness – 12mm
Slide plywood back and forth to attain vacuum
Put weights on plywood joints or reinforce with finishing
nails to maintain even surface joints
Let it dry overnight and voila you've got wooden flooring.
Finishes:
Note: Use hardwood specie plywood:
Oak, Mahogany, Pine wood etc.
1. Fine sanding: Use 240 grits sand paper
Wash coating: Only needed for coarse grain wood eg.
Tanguile or Philippine mahogany
Apply mix of 90% lacquer thinner-10% lacquer sanding
sealer just to stiffen the grain for easier sanding and have
a smoother surface.(skip process if using fine grain wood)
2. Use penetrating stain to attain desired color
Apply directly to the wood by brush. Try to maintain even
application. Over application could be corrected by wiping
off with lacquer thinner. let dry. 1 to 2 hrs
3. Apply 2 coats of sanding sealer
Sand in between coats -240 grits sand paper 1st coat
320 grits sand paper – 2nd coat
Note: drying time in between coats – 4 hrs
4. Apply Top coat to attain a harder surface
Recommended paint materials: "Polyurethane coatings"
Let dry. Curing time – 24 hrs
"G O O D L U C K ! ! !
References :
If you want to lay a carpet over top, you could put down plywood as a very inexpensive base. If there is any risk of the leak recurring then you have to rethink the floor treatment.
References :
Sure you could. Get 3/4 AC plywood (about $32 a sheet) or 3/4 Veneer Core Birch plywood ($57-60 a sheet). If you are handy with a circular saw, go buy the thinnest kerf blade you can find (try a real lumber yard, not HD or Lowes), and cut 1/8" grooves in the wood, makes it look like planks. Stain and poly, instant hardwood. If you choose the AC, sand it very very well with 150 grit paper, before staining. Years ago, when I was a poor carpenter I did this very thing, used the AC, and after sanding "drew" planks with random end joints on it with a black ball point pen (pressing real hard) and a straight edge, stained it spanish oak, 3 coats of poly, and you know what it look pretty good . . ..
Hope this helps . . ..
References :
Sure you can, it won't be especially cheap but cheaper than almost any other thing you can put down, and the plywood can be the base for when you can really afford flooring. Don't go too thin, you'll regret that. Use tongue and groove plywood, the kind normally used for subfloor, ask when you buy it for suggestions on adhesives and levelling the concrete, and maybe insulation of some kind(maybe the thin foam they use under laminate) over the concrete, and consider the condensation you may get from concrete, you might want to make sure you have a sealed layer under the plywood. Lay the plywood properly the first time in anticipation of putting down a real floor covering one day. Once it's down, you can paint it any colour or design you like with best quality latex deck stain, I suggest the solid colour kind, just roll it on. I lived with such a floor in a new house for 10 years before I could afford flooring. It was easy to wash, I even waxed it with Future, and if it wears out a little, the latex dries fast enough that you can recoat and still walk on the floor again the same day. It wore very well though.
References :